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Old 12-02-2008, 10:21 AM   #1
Trigger
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Default Full width axles on cj5

I'm new to the jeep stuff and open to suggestions.

I have been considering putting dana 44's out of a full size suburban under my cj5.
Has anybody seen a cj5 with full width axles?
Does anyone know how it will drive? I drive this jeep for a daily driver.
Also I plan on fabing all the hardware I need to do this. should I do a shackle reversal or not and if I do will it require custom drive shaft up front.

Also would it be recomended to extend the front frame horns 2" and move the front axle forward for clearence.

Any CJ5 pics with full size axles would be helpfull.
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:28 PM   #2
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You're jumping into the deeper end of the pool with no rhyme or reason given. Full-width is pretty extreme for a daily driver and will likely get you some unwanted attention from Johnny Law. There's quite a bit of decision making (and research) that goes into each of the mods that you propose, so let's take a step back here to square one. You need to make a plan for your Jeep...how you intend to use it and what you want the final product to be. Your mods will be based upon that.

Last edited by Jeepskate : 12-02-2008 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 12-02-2008, 06:50 PM   #3
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he's from missouri....we don't need reasons to do stuff, we just do it



but jeepskate has some good points.


where in MO are you?
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:40 PM   #4
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he's from missouri....we don't need reasons to do stuff, we just do it



but jeepskate has some good points.


where in MO are you?
Springfield Area!!
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:40 PM   #5
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Springfield Area!
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:56 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Jeepskate View Post
You're jumping into the deeper end of the pool with no rhyme or reason given. Full-width is pretty extreme for a daily driver and will likely get you some unwanted attention from Johnny Law. There's quite a bit of decision making (and research) that goes into each of the mods that you propose, so let's take a step back here to square one. You need to make a plan for your Jeep...how you intend to use it and what you want the final product to be. Your mods will be based upon that.
I realize it is going to be very wide, I do not have alot of Waggy parts or Scout parts available in my area for reasonable prices.. The local 4x4 shop buys all of that stuf up and re-sales it for a larger profit.. I was qouted Appx. $600.00 for a pair of old stock scout axles with like 307's they said. They wouldnt even lock that price in. However I know a guy that has an 86 Suburban that will sell me front and backs with Warn lockouts already installed out of a truck that was driving until he pulled the engine recently for around $200.00. Besides that they look pretty cool sticking out of the fenders like that Ive seen a CJ7 on this forum with full size axles, and I looked at a scrambler with full size axlel I liked. Not sure what my CJ5 will look like though. I figured that it would add alot of stabilty to my Narrow track lifted CJ. It seems pretty stable now but I know how easy they are supposed to be to roll. I kinda prefer my jeep on its wheels. Not to mention Right now I have an AMC20 two piece that Ive replaced axle bearings pinion yoke outboard seals ect. Amc 20 two peice isnt worth its wait as scrap. Every time my family gets in my jeep with me I just worry that one of my tires is going to pass me going down the road. I was a mechanic before I was a cop, and that 20 is just not a good safe design. Cant believe they used it under a V8 Jeep. Do you have any idea how a short CJ5 would drive with the wide axles.
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:11 PM   #7
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I would like to make a stable dependable vehicle for me and my family to take to the lake, or the trails or where ever seems like a good idea at the time. I like to play in the mud just like every one else. MOMS POND HATES ME!! LOL!!! As it is now the guy I bought the Jeep from did a poor job of a SOA lift. left to shocks up front on the spring plates that he flipped up top so theres like two inches of travel at the most before bottoming out.. It makes for a horrible ride. He did install any kind of anti wrap device, so I went through like five sets of U joints before I pin pointed the problem and welded one up. And to toop every thing else off they installed points type distributor on a vehicle that already had electronic ingnition.. ( I fixed that also) I suck at points. I was planning Wide Axles, 2 1/2" Out board springs up front, 2 1/2 inch springs in back (S10 maybe or YJ), Body lift 2-3", Twin stick shifter on my 300, 373 or 410 gears, a mini spool in the rear, on board air, Bead locks, And ARB air locker up front, 8000lbs warn winch, Homade steel front and rear bumper with D ring, a rear 2 inch reciever built into the bumper, and power brakes. lights ect.. I have a dream just not a big enough check book..LOL.
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
I'm new to the jeep stuff and open to suggestions.

I have been considering putting dana 44's out of a full size suburban under my cj5.
Has anybody seen a cj5 with full width axles?
Does anyone know how it will drive? I drive this jeep for a daily driver.
Also I plan on fabing all the hardware I need to do this. should I do a shackle reversal or not and if I do will it require custom drive shaft up front.

Also would it be recomended to extend the front frame horns 2" and move the front axle forward for clearence.

Any CJ5 pics with full size axles would be helpfull.

It's not a CJ and they're not D 44's, but as close as I can get for you, GO FOR IT, you wont be sorry

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Old 12-02-2008, 10:41 PM   #9
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It's not a CJ and they're not D 44's, but as close as I can get for you, GO FOR IT, you wont be sorry
That awsome!!! Not exactly what Im going for but still cool.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:37 AM   #10
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With full size axles, your tires will pretty much be completely out from under the Jeep. This is a trail rig mod, forget about daily driving the thing. I assume by 2 1/2" springs you mean 2 1/2" wide (your rear springs are already 2 1/2" wide). If you mean lift, that teamed with your SOA is going to present a whole 'nuther set of problems for you. And a 2"-3" (3" = bad idea...stresses the body mounts) body lift on top of that? Exactly what are you planning for tire size? And a spool? We're definitely out of daily driver territory. For what you're potentially making room for tire-wise, you're proposed gearing choices ain't gonna cut it. More info needed on your plans/intentions.

Not saying don't do it, just telling you to be realistic about mods vs. usage and do some research so that you understand the effects of each mod. Everything that you change affects something downstream and/or upstream from it. Start with your intended usage, choose a tire size based on that, and the rest of the build will follow based around that.

The AMC 20 is perfectly safe if it's maintained properly and used within it's engineered limits. Anybody can break anything given the right circumstances. The wheel isn't going to just fall off for no good reason. Swapping to wider stuff with your 5"+ of lift is a good idea, but IMHO full-width is going a bit far for a daily driver. Just because something looks cool doesn't mean it's a good idea for your usage.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jeepskate View Post
With full size axles, your tires will pretty much be completely out from under the Jeep. This is a trail rig mod, forget about daily driving the thing. I assume by 2 1/2" springs you mean 2 1/2" wide (your rear springs are already 2 1/2" wide). If you mean lift, that teamed with your SOA is going to present a whole 'nuther set of problems for you. And a 2"-3" (3" = bad idea...stresses the body mounts) body lift on top of that? Exactly what are you planning for tire size? And a spool? We're definitely out of daily driver territory. For what you're potentially making room for tire-wise, you're proposed gearing choices ain't gonna cut it. More info needed on your plans/intentions.

Not saying don't do it, just telling you to be realistic about mods vs. usage and do some research so that you understand the effects of each mod. Everything that you change affects something downstream and/or upstream from it. Start with your intended usage, choose a tire size based on that, and the rest of the build will follow based around that.

The AMC 20 is perfectly safe if it's maintained properly and used within it's engineered limits. Anybody can break anything given the right circumstances. The wheel isn't going to just fall off for no good reason. Swapping to wider stuff with your 5"+ of lift is a good idea, but IMHO full-width is going a bit far for a daily driver. Just because something looks cool doesn't mean it's a good idea for your usage.

What would you recommend for a rig like this. I use it as a daily by choice of course, more fun to drive than my F150 or my mountianeer. I want min. 33-12.50 amx 35-12.50.. The wide axles may have to be reconsidered, Mostly just a $400.00 price difference and avalibilty.. Ideally I want it to be a very capable off road vehicle that is steal a street legal rig.. I want to run the old fire roads and trails around the area ( Mark Twain National forest). Plan on changing out the 304 for a chvey 350 ( parts are alot more Available) not a hot rod engine though.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:47 AM   #12
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I had a 1977 CJ5 with 2" lift springs and ran 35's on it for a DD. The 258 was woefully inadequate for the task, but that's where gears come into play. Once you make 1 change to a stock vehicle, that change will effect another component and require modification to it as well. I'd find some Rubicon wheels or 10x15's, throw in a set of ARB electric or pneumatic lockers and call it done. Drop a set of 35's on it, do not install a body lift, it will cause you major headaches down the road with metal fatigue to the tub.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:12 PM   #13
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I had a 1977 CJ5 with 2" lift springs and ran 35's on it for a DD. The 258 was woefully inadequate for the task, but that's where gears come into play. Once you make 1 change to a stock vehicle, that change will effect another component and require modification to it as well. I'd find some Rubicon wheels or 10x15's, throw in a set of ARB electric or pneumatic lockers and call it done. Drop a set of 35's on it, do not install a body lift, it will cause you major headaches down the road with metal fatigue to the tub.
I have 33's now and they rub if im turning sharp of flexing the suspension very much. thats with a SOA (3 1/2") on 15X8 steel wheels.. What are your thoughts on the narrow track axles (AMC 20) I still have two piece axles. I believe I have 373's now as well, a 4 speed man. and V8. At this point power has not been a problem, But I do want to get it more trail ready.. Kinda why I was looking at the dana 44's not the strongest but Im not plannin any big rock crawlin trips either. I think Ill take your advise on the body lift though.

Last edited by Trigger : 12-03-2008 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:20 PM   #14
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I have a few leads on some waggy axles, maybe a set of scout axles, when I talk to those guys I'll let you know.

I'll be down at Ksrocks off road park Dec 13th, it's not too far from springfield. five dollars at the gate and a five dollar toy.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
I have 33's now and they rub if im turning sharp of flexing the suspension very much. thats with a SOA (3 1/2") on 15X8 steel wheels.. What are your thoughts on the narrow track axles (AMC 20) I still have two piece axles. I believe I have 373's now as well, a 4 speed man. and V8. At this point power has not been a problem, But I do want to get it more trail ready.. Kinda why I was looking at the dana 44's not the strongest but Im not plannin any big rock crawlin trips either. I think Ill take your advise on the body lift though.
What are your thoughts on the narrow track axles (AMC 20)

They are stronger than the 30 or 35 , check around the junk yards for Rubicon front and rear, they are D44's from the factory and I believe Sparky-Watts said they have electric lockers too. I ran the AMC 20 for years and years without much trouble, only turning lock to lock, the tread would grab the spring and POP, there went a U-joint or spline or axle, there's an adjustmet bolt to limit the turning radiuis that will fix that problem. I will soon have a set of D44's out of a Wagoneer I have no use for, shipping would be terrible though.
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