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Old 01-31-2005, 12:00 AM   #1
RayJohn!
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Default Homebuilt HP D30 axle truss

I'm building up a HP D30 and made this .250 thick truss plate. It doesn't run the full width but what do you think? Will It help? It will clear the oil pan (barely) under full spring compression (to the bump stops).

I also welded the axle tubes since the factory pin welds looked weak.
Bear with me...I've never loaded pics on the forum.
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Old 01-31-2005, 12:17 AM   #2
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looks pretty good to me but what do I know....lol

I'm gonna do a different type of "truss".... gonna get some drill pipe, cut it in half and sandwich the tubes and weld it on... should strencthen it up quite a bit and be farely un noticable...
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Old 01-31-2005, 12:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sureshot40sw
looks pretty good to me but what do I know....lol

I'm gonna do a different type of "truss".... gonna get some drill pipe, cut it in half and sandwich the tubes and weld it on... should strencthen it up quite a bit and be farely un noticable...
Post some pics when you get it done. Sounds like a good idea.
I just basically threw something together while I was welding up the tubes.
I'd seen similar truss plates for sale, so I thought, wtf, I'll make my own.
The steel was free.
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Old 01-31-2005, 12:33 AM   #4
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I do hope that the inner seals were removed before you did the welding. If not, then they are toast. They might look good, but I guarantee that the amount of heat put on that axle tube will have distorted them. The truss looks good but you can cut a bunch of it off without loosing any strength. If you start at the top of your center section and angle it towards the outside knuckle, almost going down to the axle, say an inch or so above it, you will still have the same strength!
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Old 01-31-2005, 01:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrayMare
I do hope that the inner seals were removed before you did the welding. If not, then they are toast. They might look good, but I guarantee that the amount of heat put on that axle tube will have distorted them. The truss looks good but you can cut a bunch of it off without loosing any strength. If you start at the top of your center section and angle it towards the outside knuckle, almost going down to the axle, say an inch or so above it, you will still have the same strength!
Thanks! It's always easier to remove metal than to put it back.

The seals are still in, but were shot to begin with. This is a project axle. I'm still driving my tj with the stock open LP30 and 3.73's while I rebuild this one.
It'll get a soft locker and 4.56's before it goes in.

Oh...and seals.
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:57 PM   #6
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Looks good, I'd cut it down as suggested. Also while you are there, reinforce all the bracketry for the conrol arms and maybe some mini skid plates too. The factory stuff is mighty thin!!!
CW
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Old 02-01-2005, 05:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwlongshot
Looks good, I'd cut it down as suggested. Also while you are there, reinforce all the bracketry for the conrol arms and maybe some mini skid plates too. The factory stuff is mighty thin!!!
CW
Yeah, I was lookin hard at the upper and lower control arm brackets. Flimsy little suckers. I should've tied that truss into the top bracket. I might still scab a piece in, then grind the weld seam smooth on the plate.
The upper c-arm brkt will be easy to beef up. The lowers are a bit more tricky. I think I want to close off the open side as much as possible allowing for drainage, and maybe add some gusseting on the outside down to the tubes.

I painted it up to prevent rust while I ponder how much more weight I can add and where. I'll post more pics when I'm closer to done.
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:07 AM   #8
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Heres the latest pics. I haven't cut down the truss yet. No access to a plasma-cutter. I did carry it out and through the uca bracket.

Pretty low res.

I boxed in the lca brackets but still want to beef up the brackets themselves.

Any suggestions?

Last edited by RayJohn!; 02-06-2005 at 02:17 AM.. Reason: add pics
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Old 02-06-2005, 12:30 PM   #9
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Lookin nice!!, If ya runnin long arm i think beefin the brackets up would be smart. What axles you runnin in it?
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Old 02-06-2005, 01:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green_tj_crawler
Lookin nice!!, If ya runnin long arm i think beefin the brackets up would be smart. What axles you runnin in it?
I'll be running the RK LA susp. It only makes use of the cast iron center section bracket on the to side.

I do want to beef up the lca brackets. I drag the thing into my place of work on the weekends to do all the welding. So I get in and out as fast as possible! :gun1:

As far as axles goes, Ive got the stock tj shafts in my jeep right now which will go into the new housing. I got lucky with this project diff. It is a hi pinion out of a '94 abs equiped xj and has the good axle shafts with 297 ujoints. Go figure. So that's a good set of spares.

If I were to do aftermarket, I'd probably go with superior 27 spline chromo's.

If you do the super 30 I dont think it does anything for the outer stubs. That would require a new style unit-bearing. So just for the sake of availability I'll stick with stock spline count. The front axles are easy to swap out anyway, providing damage is limited to them.
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:03 PM   #11
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I like the second version. It will certainly help keep it as straight as it is now. However, I'm willing to bet that you bent the axle by welding that thing all the way along the top. It's amazing how you can bend the things with some welding. It shouldn't really hurt much, since your seals are at the diff. I've welded similar trusses on full-float rear 60s, and then cut the spindles off. When you put the spindles into the alignment jig to weld them back on it's amazing how off-center you have to weld them to make them line up with the diff.
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockMonkey
I like the second version. It will certainly help keep it as straight as it is now. However, I'm willing to bet that you bent the axle by welding that thing all the way along the top. It's amazing how you can bend the things with some welding. It shouldn't really hurt much, since your seals are at the diff. I've welded similar trusses on full-float rear 60s, and then cut the spindles off. When you put the spindles into the alignment jig to weld them back on it's amazing how off-center you have to weld them to make them line up with the diff.
The axle tube was slightly bowed up at the end to begin with. To the tune of about 1/32" over the length. When I added the truss I preloaded it while welding. I'm glad I did, 'cause it turned out almost exactly like it was to start. Maybe a little less bent. If I hadn't preloaded it I think it would have been worse.

I used anchors in concrete and a hydraulic jack on the center. Hodge-podge but it worked.
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:46 PM   #13
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On something like what you did, it is best to stitch weld it. This way you don't use as much heat, plus it will allow just enough flex between the welds for a slight amount of flex. If it's too stiff there is a possibility of breakage not just at that part but you will be putting movement that used to be in your tubes to other parts of your set up. But it does look pretty darn good!
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Old 02-06-2005, 05:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrayMare
On something like what you did, it is best to stitch weld it. This way you don't use as much heat, plus it will allow just enough flex between the welds for a slight amount of flex. If it's too stiff there is a possibility of breakage not just at that part but you will be putting movement that used to be in your tubes to other parts of your set up. But it does look pretty darn good!
In retrospect I agree 100% with the stitch welding. In fact it would have been nice to relieve the area between welds about a quarter of an inch or so.

Now that's gonna bug me! I call mulligan...

Thanks for the feedback everybody.
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