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Old 09-11-2006, 06:07 PM   #1
Mattman
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Default Best coil spring/coil-over conversion for YJ

What is everyones opinion on the best conversion out there. I'm not afraid of welding or some fabrication. I'm looking for the best articulation, running 35s, I have a 9" rear end my buddy just gave me out of his 76 Bronco . Probably looking at getting a Dana 44 for the front as I want the strength and lock-outs.
Right now my Jeep is completely stock.
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Old 09-11-2006, 06:36 PM   #2
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if you can do the fabwork.... coilovers and 3 or 4 links....


build your own....
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sureshot40sw View Post
build your own....

This works if you are good at putting together a suspension goemetry. If you are not you can end up with a set up that will have axle walk, funky steering, broken u joints, this list goes on with several other points.

For someone who is asking the question on who makes the best conversion, that sounds like a irresponsible answer. If the person says something along the lings like I'm a mechanical engineer, then it could be a different story.

Donít get me wrong coil overs and a good 4 link can be made to ride amazingly well on and off road with out drive line issues. But you need to be real good at geometry, and understanding the forces that the driveline will feed into the system. Then there is the tuning that needs to be done with the coil overs for the best ride.

To answer your question look at the new X1 or X2 (spacing on the name) which should be out soon, or look for the XCL kit from Black Diamond.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:47 AM   #4
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ok.. so as to not be irresponsible...

if you have the fabrication abilities and want to further your automotive knowledge, study and research the proper way to "build your own".....



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Old 09-12-2006, 12:43 PM   #5
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I've been researching this for about 2 weeks now. I forget where, but there were a couple of good books on suspension geometry. It is possible to do it on your own, But you have to know what your doing and why. There's lots of research to do. You have to be willing to make changes until you find what works. Saftey is priority #1.

Remember, the X2 and the XCL are 7 inches of lift. Most people run 37's with that... so you may not need all that lift. That's the problem I'm running into because I want a long arm system to work well, but still stay LCOG.

One Idea I've had is for about 5.5" of lift. Basically SOA rear (like the X2). You'll have to fab a traction bar to keep axle wrap under control. And a 3 link up front sort of like the x2. I can keep it down to 5.5" of lift by building my own bracketry for the coil buckets and shock mounts on the frame.

A three link suspension in the front is easier IMO. It's two control arms in the shape of a "Y". The main control arms are made of one piece and mounts at the trans skid and to a bracket on top of the axle. The second part of the arm that makes it look like a "Y" mounts to a bracket below the axle. So there are two mounting points at the frame but 4 total on the axle. This eliminates the axles tendency to twist and keeps it equi-distant to the mount on the frame. The third link to the three link suspension is a track bar (panhard bar). This eliminates the axle's ability to move laterally in relationship to the vehicle. The axles only actually moves when flexing because of the trackbar.

The other huge problem is steering. If you decide to do a 4 link instead, you'll probably have some pretty major bump steer. Almost everyone I've seen with a 4 link has done full hydraulic steering in the front.

Be sure to research it to see what's going to work best for you. And again, be prepared to change stuff until it's dialed in. It's not uncommon for guys to change their geometry from one set up to another over the winter in an effort to find what rides best for them.
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Old 09-12-2006, 05:07 PM   #6
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Thanks for the input. My computer took a dive and finally hooked up my laptop so as to get back on line.

Yes I could fab it all, but was hoping for a quicker way to get what I want. But at least my Jeep isn't my daily driver. I just don't want to miss out on anymore wheelin than I have to. But I don't want to break the bank either.
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Old 09-12-2006, 06:20 PM   #7
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The planning and fab is extensive. If you have your heart set on a coil over, I'd go with either Rock Krawler or Black Diamond. I've heard good things about the rock krawler lifts. Keep in mind... this will be around 4K +

Even if you are to fab it yourself, coil overs themselves are very expensive. I think the lift itself would be too tall for just 35's.

Spring over axle may be the best option for you. There are several threads about it on this board. I'd suggest this route for 35's if you haven't researched it yet. A good spring over will be cheaper than a coil over conversion and you'll still get a good deal of flex.
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:05 PM   #8
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Ive been researching 3 links for a couple years on and off.... IMHO also, the 3 link is the best setup to me for a double duty rig.... making the brackets as adjustable as you can will help in dialing in....

to keep the cost down and do it yourself will require some downtime..... for the least amount of downtime you'll have to buy a prefabbed "kit" and spend a chunk of change.....

now.... on to the big money pit.... the axles.... with a EB 9" in the rear you will have a 60" ish axle with 5x5.5 bolt pattern with 28 spline shafts.... lots of people say that they suck... I personally disagree due to personal experience with a '75 bronco on 35's with a 345HP 351 and a crazy ass driver with a heavy foot..... if we didnt break em in that thing... your little Heep wont either... ..... beings it's a '76, it should be a big bearing housing which means that you can have up to 40 spline shafts made with a aftermarket third.... you prolly won't need it tho'..... run whatcha got ....

the front axle will need to be a driver drop, 60" ish wide and 5x5.5 bolt pattern... I'd say the best bet for what you have and what you want to do would be get a complete front from another early bronco..... 75-76 should have disc brakes otherwise you can use the chevy stuff with f-150 rotors and calipers... i'll explain in more depth if needed... we just did my buddies front disc conversion on his... you can build a crossmember to mount the factory radius arms to and then fab up a tracbar... one of the bronco sites has a sleeve that welds onto the radius arms and you use heims.... way more flex.... you can also, do a wrist pin for even more flex.... but you wont need it... they also have coil bucket mounts you can use .... we have done this a few times on explorers... it's easier than it sounds...

rear discs on a 9" are too simple... checkout my writeup on rear waggy 44 discs... its the same process but the brackets are cut for the 9" and ford rotors....not as much custom work....
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Last edited by sureshot40sw; 09-13-2006 at 02:47 AM.. Reason: was asleep while typing...:D
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:05 PM   #9
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I disagree. I've seen quite a few 28spline axles give up the ghost in a spooled 9" in the mud. This being in my friend Travis's CJ. I wouldn't put a 28 spline axle in place of a D35. Too much work for 0 benefit. You mentioned upgrading the axles which IMO is the way to go.

Shotty, why are you saying you NEED pass side drop?

As far as the brackets, they should be adjustable. If there are any Jeep shows or anything where you can find rigs locally that have done this, I encourage you to go pic their brain and take as many pics of their rigs as possible. Especially if they have Black Diamond or something similar. Stay away from the Pro comp coil conversion. There's no shame in copying something that works.
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Old 09-13-2006, 01:01 AM   #10
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Yea I'm undecided weather to go COILOVER or finsh my SOA
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Old 09-13-2006, 02:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knurren View Post
I disagree. I've seen quite a few 28spline axles give up the ghost in a spooled 9" in the mud. This being in my friend Travis's CJ. I wouldn't put a 28 spline axle in place of a D35. Too much work for 0 benefit
I guess the spool kept it together....

one cool thing about the 9" is that the shafts can be cut down relativly easy.... beings its a 76 it should be a big bearing.... if it is, he can pull the shafts from a full width 31 spline axle and the third and convert em'....

Quote:
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You mentioned upgrading the axles which IMO is the way to go.
definately the way I would go, at least 35 splines.... I have two EB 9's that I plan on building for future use....

Quote:
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Shotty, why are you saying you NEED pass side drop?
oooops.... my bad.... was working on 3 hrs. sleep and that was before my nap....

I meant driver drop.....
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Old 09-13-2006, 09:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
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oooops.... my bad.... was working on 3 hrs. sleep and that was before my nap....

I meant driver drop.....
I kinda figured it was a goof As I was reading it I was... hmmmm... wait... it's pretty close to midnight... I wonder if...

Quote:
ONLYNAYJ- Yea I'm undecided weather to go COILOVER or finsh my SOA
How much have you done with your SOA? If you've already started it, I'd guess finish it. Revolvers (with limiting straps if needed) would get the extra axle droop to score closer to a coil suspension. They seem to do well in spite of the bad things I've heard about Revolvers.
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