Engine Swap Bellhousings

[Greg55_99]

Part I

The Jeep/Dodge AX15 5-speed, the Jeep NV3550 5-speed, the Jeep NV1500, the Toyota R150F, R151F & R155F, the 87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154, the Isuzu AR5 and the Pontiac Solstice\Saturn Sky\Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 5-speeds all share the same case to bellhousing bolt pattern (Large Pattern). As such there are a number of possibilities that can be had when a 5-speed is desired:

Pic 1 #1. Novak Enterprises: Adapter plate for AX15 and NV3550 to GM 4-speed bellhousing. Connects all to same.

#2. 94-95 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any K car based 2.2L-2.5L L4 in a RWD application.

#3. 96-00 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any Jeep 2.5L L4. Because of it's GM 60 degree V6 inherited bolt pattern, also works with any Buick FWD V6 and supercharged V6, any Chevrolet 2.8/3.1/3.4 V6, any Cadillac 4.1/4.5/4.9 V8 and with a minor modification, any Olds Aurora DOHC V8 and Cadillac DOHC Northstar V8. Also bolts to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 DOHC V6, Holden (Australia) 3800 V6 and the LS4 5.3L V8 from the Impala SS.

#4. 88-99 Jeep 4.0L L6 bellhousing: Connects all to any AMC 290/304/343/360/390/401 V8 and any 72 and later 232 L6 and 258 L6.

#5. 94-99 Dakota 3.9L V6 Bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.9L V6 and any 273/318/340/360 V8, Magnum 5.2\5.9 V8, 3.7L V6, 4.7L V8, 5.7L Hemi V8, and Jeep 2.8L CRD Turbo Diesel. (Requires use of an 11" flywheel.)

#6. 96-04 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L V6. Also works with Toyota 3.0L V6

#7. 86.5-92 Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE. Also works with Toyota 5M-GE.

Not shown:

01-04 Jeep Liberty 3.7L V6 bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.7L V6, 4.7L V8 and any 273/318/340/360 V8, Magnum 5.2\5.9 V8, 5.7L Hemi V8, and Jeep 2.8L CRD Turbo Diesel. (Requires use of an 10.5" flywheel.)


03-04 Jeep Liberty\TJ 2.4L bellhousing: Connects NV1500 to 2.4L SOHC\DOHC Neon\SRT-4\PT Cruiser L4 (See info at #11)

Isuzu Trooper 3.5 V6 AR5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 V6

04-05 Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Vortec 2800 L4, 3500 L5 and 4200 L6

06 Pontiac Solstice\ Saturn Sky MA5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Ecotec 2.0\2.4L

88-95 Toyota Landcruiser: 1L, 2L and 2L-T Turbo Diesel truck bellhousing connects to R series transmissions. (See Pic 2 Note below)

06-10 Holden Rodeo\Colorado (Australia) 3.6L V6 bellhousing. Connects all to any GM 3.6L LY7 V6 from the Camaro\CTS\G6\Lacrosse\Aura\Malibu.

Aftermarket:

Advance Adapters: Bellhousing for AX15 to Chevrolet-Buick-Olds-Pontiac V8 and Buick V6. Connects all except NV3550, NV1500 and Pre 1996 R150 and R151 to same. www.advanceadapters.com

Advance Adapters: Bellhousing for Pre 1996 R150 and R151 to Chevrolet-Buick-Olds-Pontiac V8 and Buick V6. www.advanceadapters.com

Advance Adapters: Bellhousing for NV3550 to Chevrolet-Buick-Olds-Pontiac V8 and Buick V6.

Advance Adapters: Adapter plate for AX15 to Ford bellhousing. Connects all except NV3550 and NV1500 to same.

Advance Adapters: Adapter plate for NV3550 to Ford bellhousing.

Novak Enterprises: Adapter plate for AX15 and NV3550 to Ford bellhousing.

Marlin Crawlers: Bellhousing to connect all to 2RZ / 3RZ Toyota 4 cylinder engines http://www.marlincrawler.com/

Bills Auto Fabrication: Bellhousing to bolt all transmissions to a Mitsubishi DOHC 4G63. http://www.billsautofab.com/default.asp

Swift Machine: Adapter plate for NV3550 to GM 4-speed bellhousing. http://swiftmachine.net/index.html

Low Range Offroad: Adapter plate to bolt R series to Suzuki 1.3\1.6. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index...n-adapter.html

Thor Racing in the UK: Adapter plate to bolt an R154 to a Toyota (Lexus) V8 automatic bellhousing. http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/Gearbox...rsions-325.asp

Quality Engineered Components: Using a Dakota bellhousing, adapter plate to bolt AX15 (and others) to all Mopar Early Hemi and 'poly' engines (except the 51-53 331), as well as the Plymouth 'A' engines (277, 301, 303, 313, 318, 326) up to 1962. http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=69

Part II

Jeep AX5, Suzuki AG5, Toyota G52, G58, W55, W56, W57 and W58 5-speeds all share a common face pattern on the case (Small pattern). As such, any 88-99 Jeep 2.5L bellhousing (NOT Dakota) will bolt a Toyota W series transmission to a 60 degree GM bolt pattern.

Factory: 1981-86 1L, 2L and 2L-T Turbo Diesel truck bellhousing connects to W and G series transmissions. (See Pic 2 Note below)

1982-92 Lotus Excel - W series bellhousing to bolt Toyota transmission to Lotus 2.2L DOHC 4.

99-05 Suzuki Grand Vitara - W series bellhousing to a Suzuki 2.5L V6.

Aftermarket:

Advance Adapters: Bellhousing to bolt a W and G series Toyota trans to a Chevy-Buick-Olds-Pontiac block.

Northwest Off Road: Bellhousing to bolt W and G series to Ford 5.0. www.northwestoffroad.com

Low Range Off-road: Adapter plate to bolt W and G series to Suzuki 1.3\1.6. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index...n-adapter.html

Acme Adapters: Adapter plate and flywheel to bolt VW 1.6, 1.9 Diesel to W and G series transmisson. www.acmeadapters.com

Bills Auto Fabrication: Bellhousings to bolt Toyota W and G series transmissions to a Mitsubishi DOHC 4G63 and a Subaru flat four. http://www.billsautofab.com/default.asp

Red's Headers: Bellhousing to bolt Toyota W and G series transmissions to a 32-48 Ford Flathead V8 http://www.flatattackracing.com

OTT Industries: Adapter plate to bolt an SM420 5-speed to any Toyota W and G series bellhousing. Can also be used for a GM pattern T5 and Tremec TKO. http://www.ottindustries.com/

Advance Adapters: Adapter plate to bolt a large pattern AX15 to a small pattern AX5 bellhousing. Can be used with the other Long Shaft transmissions except the NV1500 and NV3550. http://www.advanceadapters.com/produ...replacing-ax5/

HVDA Conversions: Bellhousings to bolt Toyota W and G series transmissions to Triumph TR-2 through TR-6 engines. http://www.hvdaconversions.com/

Part III

NOTE: Input shafts lengths vary.

Pre 1995 R150\R151 = 6.5"
1996 up Toyota R series = 7.5"
AX15 = 7.875"
87-92 Turbo Supra R154 = 7.25"
AR5 = 8.2"
MA5 = 8.2"
NV3550 = 7.875"
NV1500 = 8.6"
AX5 = 7.5"
Toyota W series = 6.5"
Toyota G series = 6.5"
Suzuki AG5 = ?

Pic 2 Advance Adapters makes an extra long pilot bearing when using a slightly shorter input shaft tranny with a bellhousing that had a longer one. Obviously you can't put the longer input shaft trans into a Toyota bell that had a shorter one. (Unless a spacer is used or the input shaft is swapped. See below.)

The transmissons and bellhousings can be split up into two categories. SHORT SHAFT\SHORT BELL and LONG SHAFT\LONG BELL. They cannot be easily mixed without modifications.

All AX15's, AR5's, MA5's, NV3550's, R154's and Toyota R150's (built after 1996) are LONG SHAFT\LONG BELL. To use one of these in a SHORT SHAFT\SHORT BELL application requires a 1" spacer available from Bill's Auto Fabrication in Toledo, OH ( http://www.billsautofab.com/default.asp), Dellow Automotive or Castlemaine Rod Shop in Australia. Of course, any bellhousing combo one can think of is also available from them...

http://www.dellowconversions.com.au

http://www.rodshop.com.au/

ALL Toyota R150's and R151's built before 1996 are SHORT SHAFT\SHORT BELL. These CANNOT be used in a LONG SHAFT\LONG BELL application or with LONG SHAFT\LONG BELL adapter plates.

Pic 3: Example of a LONG SHAFT transmission hooked up to a SHORT BELL with a Dellow Automotive spacer

The Jeep AX5's 7.5" input shaft does not allow it to be used with the Toyota G and W series bellhousings unless a spacer is fabricated OR the input shaft is swapped between them. (Apparently the short 6.5" G series Toyota input shaft can be made to work in an AX5 case and vice versa). The one exception is shown below.

The Jeep NV1500 has the longest input shaft of the group at 8.6".

Pic 4: All of the large pattern transmissions.
Pic 5: All of the small pattern transmissions.

Trans First Second Third Fourth Fifth

AX15 - 3.83 2.33 1.44 1.00 0.79
AR5 - 3.753 2.26 1.37 1.00 0.729
MA5 - 3.753 2.26 1.37 1.00 0.729 (Colorado/Canyon/Hummer H3)
MA5 - 3.75 2.26 1.51 1.00 0.729 (Solstice/Sky)
R150 - 3.83 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.838
R151 - 4.31 3.32 1.52 1.00 0.83
R154 - 3.25 1.95 1.30 1.00 0.75
R155 - 3.954 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.805
NV1500- 3.85 2.25 1.48 1.00 0.80
NV3550 - 4.01 2.32 1.40 1.00 0.78
Aftermarket gearset by OS Giken for Toyota R, GM/Isuzu AR5 and Jeep AX15: 2.701 1.614 1.215
Aftermarket overdrive gear for R154 by John Doward - info@vcsystemsonline.com: .66

Pic 6: Front bearing covers are interchangeable between the Toyota R series, AX15, MA5, and AR5. NV3550, AX5 and W series are not interchangeable. The 92 and earlier Jeep AX15 front cover is aluminum and takes a hydraulic throwout bearing. The 93 and later AX15 uses an external slave and clutch arm. It's cast iron. The Toyota front cover has a shorter nose of a smaller diameter and is also cast iron.

So... there's no shortage of parts for these gearboxes. Any good shop can rebuild them and they are still not that expensive. A word of warning however. This is just a general guide on what can fit up with whatever. There are often pitfalls in bolting parts together that weren't originally assembled together. It may take some effort to work out details.... but... as others have found... it's worth it!

Greg

"Junkyard Veteran for TRUTH!"

[Greg55_99]

There are several other offshoots to choose from.

Pic 1: One is the ability to swap an AX5 behind a Jeep 2.5L with a heavier duty AX15 by using the 96-00 Dodge Dakota 2.5L bellhousing.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181361

The other is mating an NV4500 to any AX15 or Toyota R series bellhousing using an Advance Adapters adapter plate.

Pic 2, 3 & 4: The Advance Adapters plate is designed to connect the NV4500 to a Jeep 4.0L AX15 bellhousing. Because of its bolt pattern however, it will work with all of the others (with the proper spacing).

Greg

[Greg55_99]

Pic 1: If your Jeep (or car) has a Ford pattern T5 and you'd like to swap in any engine with the GM 60 degree bolt pattern, then either the 94-95 S10 2.2L bellhousing or the mid-eighties Jeep 2.5L bell might be what you want (NOT the Iron Duke one). The one you use depends on which side the starter is on...

Pic 2: Camaro 2.8/3.4L V6 and 3800 V6 bells have the tranny tilted at an angle (Ford and GM pattern) and may not be suitable for your application...

Pic 3: The 93 and earlier S10 2.8L V6 bellhousings can be used to bolt up GM pattern T5's and the SM420 to the 60 Degree bolt pattern. Some have starter pockets on both sides.

Pic 4: If ever you're asked how to hook up a Chevy Small Block to a Mustang T5, there are two ways for you to start. On the left, is the late 70's, early 80's Jeep 151 4 cylinder CJ bellhousing. Since this was the GM Iron Duke engine that Jeep used, the bell has the Cheverolet V8 bolt pattern on the engine side and the Ford T5 pattern on the other. (Originally used with the Jeep T4). On the right is the 4.3L V6 bellhousing from the 86-89 Chevrolet Astrovan. Same Ford and Chevy V8 pattern.

Pic 5: An unusual item from Australia is a product of the GM division Holden. It also mates a Ford pattern transmission to a GM 60 degree pattern. This comes from the Holden Commodore 3800 V6 with a BW T5. Unfortunately, the input shaft of the Aussie T5 is 9" long, and the bellhousing is the same length.

Greg

[Greg55_99]

As has been pointed out, the pre '96 R150F and R151F input shafts are far too short to be used in the AX15 bellhousings. (Even with the Advanced Adapters pilot bushing) The R154 input shaft is longer, and, with the proper spacing and AA bushing CAN be used in the AX15 bellhousings with no mods.

Some further information from Marlin "Crawler" Czajkowski on the Toyota R series and the AX15. It is possible to swap the longer AX15 input shaft into the pre '96 R150F.

"Parts are interchangeable between these trannys. Inputs, output shafts, front nose cone, and rear housing are different but generally can be interchanged if you stay with in the family.

There are three "R" families;

86-91 early, simple, common, heavy design

92-95 upgraded syncrows, hubs, shift rods and linkage, smaller bearings, lighter gears

96-newer greater helix angles, upgraded syncrows, lighter bolts, reverse brake

The Jeep 86-00' AX15 would use the same bearings, syncrows, and gears within the same family as the Toyota boxes. I am not sure of the Isuzu production years, but would also be the same.

Remember that only the 86-87' 4x4 R151F 22R Turbo got the 4.31 1st gear. 2x4 22R Turbos, got the 3.83 1st, along with all other 4x4 R transmissions --- Toyota 3.0, 3.4 V6, Jeeps, and Isuzu's.

The lowest geared R is the 5.15 1st gear found in the R452 imported trans which also uses the same bearings, and syncrows.

The Jeep AX15 has a 10 spline American style input with a 5/8" pilot. I am currently converting a Jeep AX5 to a Toyota t-case

I have never had to opportunity to upgrade an AX15. This can be done but only to a 86-91 AX15. The longer coarse spline input and Jeep nose cone will swap right in. The AX15 bellhousing will also bolt up to the front of the R151F since both front housings are the same!

I send both Toyota and Jeep shafts to my drive line shop and have them put together."

Also, the question was asked (on another board) if the AX15 could be hooked up to Toyota transfer cases for crawling. According to Marlin, that's a go..

"I have put a Marlin dual case behind a AX5 [G54/58 Toyota] Jeep trans by changing the output shaft and tailhousing from a Toyota doner trans.

This can also be done to a AX15 [R150 Toyota].

The Jeep auto should also work as long as the output shaft and rear housing is changed from a Toyota trans.

In the past years, I used to get a lot of calls from Jeep owners wanting to go slow like the Toy trucks. Since I was so busy, I directed the calls to Mepco and Klune V."

And... as to WHY a longer input shaft can't just be swapped into an R151F:

"The problem is that the 4.31 and 5.15 trans were only available with the short, pre 96 input shaft. It is impossible to just replace the input gear only because it is so much smaller. It is so much smaller in diameter, that it would not even touch the front constant run teeth on the factory countershaft. To obtain the 5.15 ratio, the R452 uses the turbo first gear set, but a greater countershaft underdrive by decreasing the input gear diameter, and increasing the countershaft diameter. This combination will effect 1,2,3,5, and reverse ratios.

Marlin"
http://www.marlincrawler.com/

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LATE EDIT

Swapability between input shafts

Examples of "Hybrid" transmissions. Mixing and matching AX15\R150 parts to get what works for you! A special thanks to Kiwipushrod on the Pirate 4X4 board for the following information.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=667318

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=831289

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=881539

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=714909

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=662090

AX5/G54 Hybrid Transmission:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1004043

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...&postcount=104

As an example of what can be accomplished:

Pic 1: Bellhousing from a 3.0L Supra Turbo attached to an 89 Jeep AX15. The input shaft is 7.82" in length but 6.55" to the edge of the threads.

Pic 2: Toyota Supra Turbo R154 next to Jeep AX15. Input shaft is 7.25" in length but 6.65" to the edge of the threads.

Pic 3: Supra Turbo R154 next to Jeep AX15.

It is obviously possible to swap the 91 and earlier Jeep input shaft into an R150F and use the Supra Turbo bellhousing to hook it up to the 7MGTE. However, this shaft swapping can be avoided if using the 1996 and later R150F which has a longer input shaft already.

Pic 4: Shows the relative shifter locations between the various 2WD transmissions.

Greg

[MiniHowie]

Damn dude, that's a lot of great information. Thanks

[Greg55_99]

For those Jeep gents that have broken AX5's laying around, Don't ditch the bellhousing. It may be used in a Toyota application and can bolt up any GM 60 degree engine (3.4/3.1/2.8 Chevy V6, Buick 3800 V6, Isuzu 3.2/3.5 V6, etc....) to the Toyota G series and W series tranismissions.

Pic 1 is a Toyota W58 out of a Supra hooked up to an AX5 bellhousing.

Pic 2 shows the AX5 bell planted up to a Chevy Camaro 3.4L V6.

Pic 3 For this to work with the AX5 bell, you'd need the thick (heavy) flywheel from a Camaro/Firebird. It places the clutch disk back far enough to completely engage the splines on the short W/G series input shaft. That's got to be at least 1 3/4" from the back of the block to the front face of the flywheel. The S10 flywheel is shorter (more narrow) and won't work.

Pic 4 is a bellhousing also with the GM 60 degree pattern from the 96-00 Dodge Dakota 2.5L hooked up nicely to an R154 5-speed out 87-92 Toyota Turbo Supra. It also requires the use of the Camaro 3.4L V6 flywheel.

Note: This information applies only to the Rear Wheel Drive versions of the 2.8\3.1\3.4L V6. They have the starter on the passenger side which clears the bellhousing. The Front Wheel Drive versions of these engines, 3100\3400\3500\3900 V6's have the starters on the driver side of the block. That would require either cutting into the bellhousing or finding a way to bolt the starter on the opposite side. Also, FWD flywheels are a different diameter than the RWD flywheels.

Greg

[letank]

you deserve the award of the year.... we need to create one

Michel

90 wranwran

[Greg55_99]

This info comes from Jpman94 over at www.jeepforum.com. He highlights some differences between the Jeep AX15 and the 4WD Dodge Dakota version:

"I have a Dakota transmission in my Jeep. I want to say it was out of 99 or something like that. I can't remember. I found it on Ebay, and yes it was cheaper than one from a jeep. Don't ask me why, it's the same transmission.

The bell housing is removalable on the Dakota transmissions. I got mine without the bellhousing, the guy had the original that mated it to a V-8, but I didn't need that...

Once I got the transmission and then pulled my old one, I started comparing the two and looking for differences. I know, a little late to do that after I bought it, but I'm dumb like that... Everything was EXACTLY the same, input shaft size, spline count, output, transfer case shifter mount points, EVERYTHING, except.....

The 'clocking' of the transfer case mounting holes is different. The durango transfer case is clocked about 6-7 degrees LOWER! I thought long and hard about just making this work, but I sure didn't want to force it to fit and I didn't want to loose ground clearance.

So, after a lot of debating with my buddy helping me, we decided we would take a drill to my newly purchased transmission!!! We carefully made a template using the back of my old transmission and transferred the hole locations to the new one from the dakota. We then double and triple checked everything and then started to drill. While the ears that the holes are drilled into are the same on both transmissons, the hole locations are at opposite sides, (you just have to see one to understand that). So, there is room to drill the correct holes, but there is not much room for error. We started with small holes and worked our way up to the right size. When we were all done, the transfer case slid right on, in the correct location.

Other than that, the rest is better much a standard transmission install. The only other thing, is you will need to obviously use your shifter, as the dakota shifter isn't even close. Just unbolt it from your old tranny and bolt it to the new one."

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Pic 1 of the set up below was a method of getting a free beer from Randy Burleson at www.4x4wire.com. The Isuzu DOHC 3.2\3.5L V6 has a dual bolt pattern on the back of the block. The outside pattern is strictly Isuzu, however, the inside pattern is the GM 60 degree. I can only presume it's there to fit up GM automatic tranny's in Troopers. So.. to prove this beyond doubt to Randy, there we have it. That's a twin cam 3.5L Isuzu V6 bolted (for the most part) up to a T5 out of a 95 2.2L S10 Chevy pickup. The bellhousing has the Ford T5 pattern on the case side and the GM 60 degree pattern on the engine side. I'd have put more bolts in the holes but I couldn't find any more at the yard. And yes... it is sitting in the back seat of a Trooper. Don't ask how it got there..... I like Fosters Randy....

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Pic 2 is of the "strange but true" variety. Using the Novak AX15 to GM bellhousing adapter, one can hook up the Toyota R154 Supra Turbo tranny (or any 96 and later "R" series with the longer input shaft) up to a stock 61-63 Buick 215 V8 bell. This set up will work behind any Rover V8 in a Land Rover, Range Rover, Discovery or Triumph TR8.

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Pic 3 is of the "Even stranger but TRUE!" variety. Using a Small Block Mopar adapter available from Hot Heads, a Dakota V6 bellhousing can be used to bolt up the long shaft transmissions to a Chrysler 1955 - 59 331/354/392 Hemi! http://www.hothemiheads.com/ Of course, who would want too....
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Pic 4 is the Advance Adapters adapter plate to mount an AX15 to a Ford "butterfly" bolt pattern bellhousing.
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Pic 5 comes from Chris Pomeroy. Using a 2.5L Dakota bellhousing, he's hooked up a Toyota long shaft R150F to a Buick 3800 V6.

Pic 6 is also from Chris Pomeroy. It illustrates the hazards of fitting up parts that weren't designed to work together. When Chris fitted up the R150F to the 3800, he discovered the input shaft was positioned .5" too far back from the flywheel to fully engage the clutch disk. His creative solution involved having a spacer fabbed up to push the Camaro 3800 flywheel closer to the R150 input shaft and stacking the ring gears to compensate. See Chris's project at: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376653

Late Edit: There's a better method of doing this:

http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showpos...4&postcount=99

Late Edit: Hooking up an R154 to a Mopar Small Block has been done. Just follow along:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...fpart=all&vc=1

And here:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewto...highlight=r154

Greg

[Greg55_99]

Since the Toyota G and W series bellhousings can be swapped onto a Jeep AX5 (with an input shaft change), another avenue has been opened up for Toyota Diesel engines. The following information comes from Todd at http://www.toyotadieselmadness.com/

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Post subject: Toyota diesel conversions FAQ

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Ok, I get so many emails concerning this subject that I thought it appropriate to take the time to right up a little FAQ on toyota diesels and converting USA/Canada trucks.

Q: Which years were they available in the USA/Canada?
A: The toyota trucks were available in 2wd for in 1981-1986. The engines themselves changed but they all share a similar design (IDI inline 4cylinder). You could get the 4wd models in 1985-86 in a turbo diesel form (2L-T). Although some of these 4wd versions I have seen with a 2L non turbo.

Q: What are the engines that were available with these trucks?
A: There were 3 truck diesel engines available here in the states.
1L-the first diesel engine available here in the US. A slow but rugged engine. It only was available NA
2L- A larger displacement 2.2L overhead cam inline 4 cylinder. A little better power than the 1L but no powerhouse.
2L-T- A turbo charged version of the 2L which in later models featured a roller rocker valve train and lower compression to compensate for the extra heat created by forced induction. The final version available from Toyota sold here in the USA and Canada.

Q: Are parts hard to find for these engines?
A: Not too bad. Some stuff can be found at NAPA and dealerships. It really depends what you are looking for. Some parts are no longer available so finding them requires a creative thinker.

Q: I want to convert my USA/Canada truck to diesel. What engine/combo is the easiest to convert and cheapest?
A: All three engines share the same bolt pattern. So you can really use any of them.
Q: What is the ideal truck to convert?
A: Anything with a 22re gas engine will be pretty much a straight forward conversion. 4x4 trucks/4runners from 1985-1995 should bolt right up. You will need the diesel motor mounts though. Although it can be done, the V6 powered trucks/4runners need to stay v6 powered. There is alot involved including driveshaft mods and cutting off the old engine mounts and welding in new ones. Much more involved process and frankly not worth the extra effort.

Q: Which transmission should I use for my conversion?
A: The w56 transmission is what you will need for any toyota diesel conversion. This is a 5-speed overdrive 4x4 transmission with a removable bellhousing. You will need to purchase a diesel bellhousing and swap out the gas bellhousing for the diesel one in order to mate the engine trans up sucessfully. The reason for this is that on the 22re the starter is on the passenger's side of the car. On the diesel, the starter is on the driver's side of the car. If you were to try and get around this, the turbo would basically be touching the starter and it wouldn't fit. The W56 was standard on 4x4 trucks and 4 runners from 1985-1995.

Q: Which engine would you recommend from your experiences?
A: The 1L and the 2L are not really worth the time. They are painfully slow and in a 4x4 setting, they are greatly underpowered. Pretty good for a little 2wd truck though. To convert a 2wd truck just buy the 2wd diesel trans complete with bellhousing and install. There are 3 more engine available only in Europe that are highly recommended for anyone doing a diesel conversion. They are:

2L-TE- Same block as the 2L and 2L-T but has an electronically controlled timing advance module in the injection pump which gives is much better response time under load. It controls mroe finely the fuel delivery and has a larger advance curve giving it a slight Hp increase of 10hp from the 2LT.
3L- A 2.8 liter sharing the same block as the 2L and 2L-T/2L-TE. Toyota kept the electronic controls of the 2L-TE and added a few smog features. Not too complicated to wire up. My choice of engines for power and simplicity.
5L- A 3.0 liter inline 4 cylinder diesel. Alot of electronics which include features of the previous engines. Different bolt pattern and engine mounts. These are found in the euro Hilux's (tacomas) and Surf's (4runners). I got a chance to drive one of these and whoa. Balls to the walls power. Very impressive but even in Europe, hard to find and expensive. This is the last one I'll mention but if you want to spend serious cash on a toyota diesel converison with the latest engines available, you'd be better off importing one from South America and trying to register it as a 1974 model. After a vehicle is 30 years old, it can be imported because of the lack of exemptions.

Q:How difficult are these things to wire up?
A: Not too bad actually. There is really one wire to hook up for the fuel cut solenoid. This basically allows fuel to reach the inector lines. Wiring up the temp sending unit etc requires a bit of reading but nothing too difficult.

Q: Where can I get a diesel engine for cheap?
A: I would highly suggest you not just buy the engine. You should always go for the half cuts which are found all over the internet. A half cut is basically everything including the trans and engine from the dashboard forward. They cut the vehicle in half. This way you get everything, wiring engine trans glow plug timers etc. A much cheaper way to got in the long run. All the little stuff you'll spend alot of time and $$ finding.

Q:What all needs to be swapped out with my gas truck if I were to buy a half cut?
A:You will need to take out the following:
engine
trans
fuel tank
dash
wiring harness
driveshafts
I'm sure theres more but if these dont deter you then go ahead.

Q: My truck has the stock sr5 guages with tachometer.How do I get my tachometer to work as diesels dont have an electronic ignition system?
A: There is a company called Dakota digital (www.dakotadigital.com) that sells a tachomter interface for diesel engines called SG-5 for around $85. The kit consists of a magnetic pickup and a basic receiver which is programmed by using a binary variable circuit board. Which means that you give it different settings for your desired output. You mount the magnetic pickup on the bellhousing facing the flywheel and take the number of teeth on the flywheel and look up the number on the chart and enter in the settings. This will ensure you tachometer is accurate.
note: All toyota guages use a high output signal to power their tachometers. Dakota digital's tachometer SG-5 kit sends a low output signal. You will need to tell Dakota digital when ordering the SG-5 that you need the SG-5 with a high output signal. All they do is combing the SG-% with the SG-8 (another interface they sell).

Q: I cant get my a/c system to cycle on and off like it should. It was working fine before the conversion. What's the problem?
A: All toyota trucks and 4 runners from 1990-1995 use what's called an a/c amplifier. This basically is a logic circuit that takes 3 different signals and then decides if your system is ready to operate.
1 signal is the tachometer signal. Even if the truck is not equipped with a factory tachometer, it still gets this signal from the factory. This tells the a/c amp that the engine is running. Then it needs an idle up signal which it basically sends a +12v to increase the engine RPM. To use this feature, you can use an idle up solenoid from an 85-88 celica or truck with te 22re engine. it's got 2 wires, 1 12v and other is ground. When energised is pulls and not, it retracts.Last is the switch in the dash. This is the sending unit which sends the power to the a/c amp which tells it to turn on. If you have all of these signals, your a/c will function flawlessly. This info took me 2 months of reading schematics to learn.

Q: there's not much info on Toyota diesels on the internet. Where is a good place to start reading?
A: Right here and on SR5.net

Todd
http://www.toyotadieselmadness.com/
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Todd also reports that the bellhousing from an 88-95 diesel Toyota Landcruiser with the "100" series transmissions can be used to hook up the same engines to an R series trans. This will also work with the AX15 with a 1" Dellow spacer or an input shaft change.

Acme Adapters offers an adapter plate and modified flywheel to hook up VW 1.6. 1.9L Turbo Diesels to a W series tranny. This requires the use of the Toyota 22R bellhousing. It can also be used with an AX5 if a spacer is fabbed up or the input shaft from a Toyota G or W series trans is used. To use this plate for an R series swap, the R151 Turbo bellhousing must be used (also requires Dellow spacer). "Rockclod" on the Pirate Board had done this to his Toyota truck:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354974

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386018


The Jeep 2005 - 06 Liberty comes with a 2.8L DOHC Turbo Diesel that utilizes the standard Mopar Small Block bolt pattern. Pic 2 is the "export" bellhousing used on the Jeep CRD 2.8 diesel. (Currently not offered in the US with a 5-speed). The Dakota pickup 3.9L V6 bellhousing also makes the swap possible.

Greg

[RKYMTNMULCHER]

Dang Im confused now. I think I'll just swap my T-5 and 4.2 for a 4.0 and AX-15

[Greg55_99]

Pic 1: Well, if you ever wanted to know how to hook up a Dodge Neon or SRT-4 engine to a RWD trans, there MAY be an answer. The 2003-2004 Jeep Liberty and 2003-2004 Jeep TJ use a 2.4L backed up with a transmission called the NV1500. (It's also sometimes called the NV2550. Don't know why.) It doesn't share any parts with it's cousin the NV3550 used in the 4.0 Jeeps, but it DOES share it's transmission to bellhousing bolt pattern. Which, as you already know, is the same as the 1988-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154 5-speed. So, the NV1500 bell behind the Jeep 2.4L can be used to bolt up the R154. That's the good news. The BAD news is... the input shaft on the NV1500 is longer than the R154 by slightly under an 1.5". The 2.4L bellhousing is 8.6" in depth. The input shaft on the R154 is 7.25" to the tip. Now that's not the real problem. It MAY be able to work with a custom aluminum flywheel that fairly thick. That will place the clutch disk back far enough to fully engage the splines on the input shaft. I haven't seen the Jeep flywheel but I suspect the Liberty flywheel would be fairly thick. So... there you've got it. The AX15 and 96 and later "R" series shafts are slightly longer, but still would need some help.

Pic 2: Left 94-95 Dakota bellhousing for 2.2/2.5L swap with Supra R154
Right 02-04 Jeep TJ bellhousing for 2.0/2.4L swap with R154

Pic 3: TJ bell on left is deeper (8.6") than the Dakota bell on the right (7.82"). Could be, it can be shaved 1/2" to get things to line up. Don't know however.

Late Edit

The following info was the result of a conversation with a gent on the Allpar board:

Greg very nice article. Chetcpo I am trying to do the same thing.

I am building a 33 Dodge pickup street rod and would like to put a turbo 2.4 in it. I do have a 2.4 out of a Jeep wrangler and I bought a NV1500 bellhousing from the dealer for $48!!!!. I also have the Jeep 2.4 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. I was thinking of building an adapter plate to mount a Ford Mustang bellhousing and T-5. Using a 2.3 turbo mustang clutch (also 9" like the jeep flywheel and pressure plate) Now I am considering looking closely at the Toyota R154 if I can get around the input shaft length prob. I can provide the Jeep flywheel info if anyone could use it. Again Greg you provided info I have been searching for. Thanks!

Baddeeds
------------------------------------------------

Hi Badeeds,
Well, I suppose you'll be a pioneer on this swap. If push comes to shove, I suppose you could find a 2WD version of the NV1500 and go with that. Of course, you probably won't... :-)

In that case, the magic number is 6.65". If you assemble the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and bellhousing together on the back of the block, hook a tape measure onto the front edge of the clutch disk hub (the side closest to the block) and measure to the tranny side of the bellhousing, you'll need to see at LEAST 6.65". Less is OK, more is not OK.

This way, you can guarantee you'll have full spline engagement. That mesurement should also tell you how much you may need to shave off the front of the bell. From looking at the bellhousing I have, I think you can get away with milling about 1/2" off of the front. If you know what alternator spacers look like, you can probably weld some of those over the bolt holes to help brace it up. Those are my ideas anyway.

Greg

-------------------------------------------------------

Thanks Greg, more good info. I did some simple measuring not exact yet because I do not have the tin spacer plate that goes between the engine and the bell housing. I also do not have the flywheel to engine bolts.

I hung the flywheel off the crank so that it sat flush to the crank and bolted up the bell. From the bell to the transmission surface area, and too the machined flywheel clutch surface is about 6 3/16" I assume the tin plate will add another 1/16" So it should be around 6 1/4".

Now the Jeep clutch disk spline surface is about 1" long and about 3/16" of the splines would be inset ahead of the flywheel machined surface. I guess I need to get a Supra clutch disk (correct R154 spline disk) and measure from the bell to the end of the clutch spline.

Hopefully I can get all this bolted up correctly and remeasure by the end of the week. I ordered the tin plate and the flywheel bolts from the dealer today.

I think this might all work out, I hope so because it would be a neat setup. Do you have a R154 transmission your measuring from? If this works out, where would a good place to get a R154 core or good trans? Im in Dallas and there is alot of good salvage yards.

Brian
-------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Brian,
Yes indeed I DO have the R154 that I'm measuring from. From the measurements you're giving me, it sounds like it just might work as is! Of course, you'll have to fab up your own pilot bushing. Also, what is the OD of your clutch disk? A gent from the Isuzu forum, Chris Pomeroy has figured out that the Toyota 3.0L V6 clutch disk is 9 3/8" (It will fit the R154 spines). He's mounting a Toyota R150F behind a Buick 3800 using a Dodge Dakota bellhousing.

Greg
--------------------------------------------
Hey greg, the jeep disk is 9". At Clutchnet Manufacturing Corp. The largest clutch selection in the world they list alot of toyota disk with the correct spline. There is some toyota disk that are under and over the 9" size. I think they also can build a 9" disk with the needed spline count. I hope to have some good measurement later in the week. Brian
------------------------------------------------------
Greg I still dont have the flywheel bolts, but I did find a R154 today. I got the trans ,shifter and the old clutch disk for $150. I thought that whas pretty good!. Well I bolted up my Jeep NV1500 bellhousing and slid the Toyota disk onto the splines. Giving alittle room for clutch wear, flywheel turning ect the disk surface is 2.74 from the bellhousing to block surface. Measuring the block mounting surface to the clutch surface on the flywheel I got a shade over 2.50". So anyway the bell will need to milled at least 0.25". I not going to crank up my mill until I get the rest of the parts and a flywheel that will be used. Stay tuned for final measurements ect. I will take pics, notes, and post them to add to your post. brian
----------------------------------------------------------
Watch out for the starter. Make sure you've got enough clearance after you mill. Oh, what is the distance from the front edge of the clutch hub to the back edge of the bellhousing.

Couple of other things. You'll probably need a 93 and later Jeep or Dakota front bearing retainer. It will make things a lot easier when it comes to hooking up the throwout bearing. Do you have a clutch arm and slave cylinder yet?

Greg

--------------------------------------------------
I checked the starter, it looks like it will be ok. I did not measure the starter clearance, but it has more than 1/4" between the starter nose and bellhousing.

I dont have the clutch arm or slave cylinder. "the distance from the front edge of the clutch hub to the back edge of the bellhousing" I'll check.

What type of bearing do you recomend? I do have a lathe if any spacers or such is needed. Brian

-----------------------------------------
I'm a big fan of stock components. Cheap and easy to pickup in case of failure. I only suggest using the Jeep\Dakota front bearing cover so you can put it back together with the stock Jeep\dakota throwout bearing and clutch arm. But... if you've got a lathe......

Greg
-----------------------------------------------------
Hey Greg, I got the rest of my components. I did some quick measurements w/digital calipers. The distance between the front edge of clutch disk hub to the back of the bell housing is about 6.72. Thats a hard measurement is difficult to measure. I will get a better measurment after taking it back apart. I do have good measurement from the back of clutch hub to bell. I will add the clutch hub thickness.

I think I would feel comfortable taking 0.375 off the bell. This would give me plenty of spline ingagement. This also would give me about 1/4" clearance between the clutch hub and bearing retainer (AX15 bearing retainer). I took your advice on the longer bearing retainer. No way would the short stock R154 retainer would work. I did get a cluch arm and bearing which is common jeep stuff.

Might need some advice on one thing. I am thinking of milling 0.250" off the front of the bell and 0.125 off the back. This way I would preserve the counter bore for the dowel locaters. Is this a good or bad idea? Later, Brian
-------------------------------------------------------
Man, if you're getting 6.72" from the front of the hub to the back of the bell, I'd say just mill .20" off of the front and call it a day! I don't think you'd weaken anything that way. That's a good starting point.

Greg

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And that's all I know...




LATE EDIT:

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...-work-2-a.html

Greg

[Tigger]

2000 TJ NV3550 will bolt up to a 4.2 with no bellhousing mods (it wasn't listed) and you dont' need any adaptors.

[Greg55_99]

The NV3550 is a pretty robust gearbox. Much more capable than the AX15 that it replaces. It shares all of its mounting points with the AX15 but, as far as I'm aware, shares no parts with it. So, any application that has an AX15, can take an NV3550 with no problems. Although the front case bolt pattern is identical between all of them (Toyota R, AX15, MA5, AR5, NV3550), the NV3550 has a unique front bearing retainer and shape. It may not be capatable with some aftermarket adapter plates.

I've previously touched upon the MA5 out of the GM Canyon\Colorado pickups and Pontiac Solstice\ Saturn Sky. Todd Kozak of Kozak Automotive was kind enough to send the following info about them, some pics (Pic 1) and some info about a project he and a buddy are involved in:

"Greg, the stock THM 350 mount does indeed bolt up to the MA5, although by the looks of it about 1 inch will need to be sectioned from the total height of the mount to properly orient the trans on the crossmember. The 4 speed pictured is a 1970 vintage Muncie M20 with a Pontiac A-body shifter attached to it. Some floor ' clearancing ' may be necessary but in my opinion not too much. The MA5 shifter is closer to the center of the driveline tunnel , so the opening would be re-located slightly to the right. A good friend of mine is going to put it in his 64 GTO , of all things an original tripower 4 speed car. When I ordered the (Novak) adapter last week, the guy at Novak told me they had a customer who had an AX-15 behind an LS1 in a Jeep and it lasted for 6 months. I'm sure they were off-roading it and pounding on it. We plan to put the MA5 into service behind a 400 Pontiac which has more torque output than the LS1.However, it will be street driven only so it may prove to be a good swap. Time will tell. The MA5 has a 1 1/8 inch diameter 26 spline GM input with 0.668 pilot diameter (Muncie, Borg Warner ST-10, T-56) and 27 spline GM output (TH350, Muncie) shafts. Check out the Muncie 4 speed comparison pic. Use a Novak adapter on the front of the MA5 to bolt it right to a conventional Chevy bellhousing or BOP bellhousing, using all your original clutch linkage etc."

Pic 2: I should also mention the bellhousing that comes with the Colorado\Canyon MA5 will bolt directly up to a 275HP GM DOHC 4.2L I6 out of the Envoy\Trailblazer\Bravada. It uses an electronic speedometer output.

Pic 3: The Solstice\Sky MA5 is nearly identical. I say nearly because it uses a different tailhousing with an extended shifter assembly.

Greg

[GRABBER]

I have an 87' YJ with a 4.2L and peugeot tranny. Is it possible to put a AX15 bellhousing and a toy R150 tranny to the 4.2L, thus, being able to use a toy t-case. Or would it be better to use a AX5 bellousing and a G series toy tranny, so I wouldnt need an adapter for the R150 to chain driven toy t-case.
Also, which G series tranny would be best.
Thanks for the info.
Eric

[jr9162]

Originally Posted by GRABBER

I have an 87' YJ with a 4.2L and peugeot tranny. Is it possible to put a AX15 bellhousing and a toy R150 tranny to the 4.2L, thus, being able to use a toy t-case. Or would it be better to use a AX5 bellousing and a G series toy tranny, so I wouldnt need an adapter for the R150 to chain driven toy t-case.
Also, which G series tranny would be best.
Thanks for the info.
Eric

See http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=1933.0

If you use the AX5 bellhousing you'll want to use a Toyota W56 tranny and gear driven Tcase. See this site for info regarding the Toyota trannys: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/

If you want a top shifting gearbox and Tcase use a 85-88' W56. If you want a forwarding shifting gearbox and Tcase use a 89-95' W56 and Tcase. Marlin says the W56 is 50% stronger than the G52/G54's. The 86-87' R151F and 23 splined Tcase is 100% stronger than the G52/G54. However, the R151F will need an AX15 bellhousing and most likely an AX15 input shaft and input shaft bearing retainer swap to work with your configuration. That means a complete tranny teardown.

If you use the W56, consider Marlin's HD kit. See http://www.marlincrawler.com/trans.html

Greg, did I get it all right?

JR